Posted in #crafts # creativity, birthday

HOW TO MAKE A PRINCESS POPPY CAKE WITH PULL-APART CUPCAKE HAIR

Original source
How to make a Princess Poppy cake with pull-apart cupcake hair: step by step tutorial to make a Trolls Princess Poppy Cake

TO MAKE THIS PRINCESS POPPY CAKE YOU WILL NEED:
One 9 inch round cake, single layer

29 cupcakes (27 for the hair and 2 for her ears)

[you can always use a smaller round cake and alter the number of cupcakes, based on the number of your guests]

Fondant: pale pink, bright pink, black, white, blue and green

[I used approximately 8oz of pale pink icing to cover the face and ears, then small amounts of each of the other colours for features/accessories]

Frosting

[I used plain vanilla frosting to dirty-ice under the fondant and two tubs (32oz total) of ready-made bright pink frosting for her hair]

Large stiff cake board

[I used an off-cut of wood, but a couple of layers of stiff cardboard would work]

A picture of Princess Poppy (google images is your friend), printed out to be the same size as your round cake, to use as a template for her features

[This may take a bit of trial and error, but is worth getting right so that you can make the features the right size, and place them correctly on the cake. One day I will work out how to make a printable for you to help with this!]
I also used fondant adhesive and a fondant roller, both of which are handy, but not essential. I also have special fondant-cutting tools (scalpel etc.) which are handy for the detailed areas, but a small sharp knife will do the job too.
1. Once you have baked your cake and cupcakes, leave them to cool and then lay them out to finalize the number of cupcakes that you want to use.

THE FACE

Once the cakes are completely cool, you’re ready to start the decoration.

1. Roll out the pale pink fondant until it is large enough to more than cover the cake.

2. Dirty ice the cake, I used vanilla frosting.

3. Lay the sheet of pink fondant over the cake, smooth it out and then start trimming. Cut it slightly larger than you think you need and then ‘tuck’ it in neatly under the cake. Work your way around the cake until it is completely covered.

4. Using a round cookie cutter (or similar) cut out two rounds big enough to cover two of the cupcakes to make the ears, dirty ice two cupcakes and top with fondant.


5. Take your picture of Princess Poppy and carefully cut out her eyes. Keep the rest of her face intact as you will use this to ‘mark’ where her eyes should go on the cake before placing them.

6. Using the cut-out eyes as a template, cut out the black shape of eyes/eyelashes.

7. Next, cut out the white circle and use it as a template to cut out the required fondant.

8. Repeat with the pink and blacks circles, and then lastly roll two small balls of white fondant for the highlights.

9. Using a little fondant adhesive, layer the elements of the eyes until you have two complete eyes.


10. Using the print out of Poppy’s face (which will now have two holes in it where the eyes used to be!) mark the locations for the eyes lightly on the cake, then stick the completed eyes in place with a little fondant adhesive.

11. Using the same process, cut out her nose and her eyebrows from the print-out and then from fondant, again using the holes in the print-out to mark their locations on the cake.

12. For her mouth, I just made a thin roll of fondant and gave her a little smile!


13. Use the same process to make her headband. Roll and cut a strip of green fondant long enough to lay over her hair, and then cut out small green leaves and blue flowers. Layer the leaves and flowers as shown above, stick and leave to dry. Then, lay this to one side to use once later.
THE HAIR
You are now ready to frost her ‘hair’. Lay the cupcakes out into their final positions. You want them pushed as tightly as possible against each other to make frosting the gaps easier.


14. Firstly, add her fringe/bangs to her face. I used a palette knife and marked out where I wanted her fringe/bangs to go and then filled in with the frosting. Use the spreading action to create continuous lines in the direction her hair would fall.


15. Then start icing the cupcakes! Start at the head and work your way to the end of her hair. The cupcakes will want to move, so use one hand to keep them in place as you frost each line of cupcakes. Again use the palette knife to create sweeps of hair as you go. Work your way all the way up to the top and you will soon have Poppy’s trademark hairstyle. Lay on her headband and your work is done!

And Princess Poppy’s ear was a perfect spot for a candle 🙂

Posted in #crafts # creativity, Crochet, Granny square tutorial

Angel Heart Granny Square 💕


Original source
Materials: (I used)

4,5 mm crochet hook

Worsted weight yarn: (Martha Stewart Extra Soft Wool Blend) color A,B,C

Scissors

Yarn needle
Abbreviations
Note: I used chainless starting dc/tr for every first dc/tr of each round instead of ch 3/ch 4. There’s another good crochet technique to use is ch 2/ch 3, dc/tr into same stitch ( counted as 1st dc/tr ). In the pattern below you’ll see I simply state dc/tr for every first dc/tr of each round, so just choose your best technique 🙂
You can use any hook size for this pattern, just choose a yarn type that matches.

Heart: pic no.1,using color A yarnR1: form a magic ring, crochet 12 dc into the ring, total 12 dc (pull ring close, sl into first st to join, ch 1)

R2: work all sts into front-loops only, 1 hdc and 1 dc into 1st st, 3 tr into next st, 2 dc into next st, 1 dc and 1 hdc into next st, 2 hdc into next st, 1 dc into next st ( you have just finished half of the heart now)

Go counter-clockwise: 1 dc into next st, 2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc and 1 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, 3 tr into next st, 1 dc and 1 hdc into last st, total 24 sts ( sl into first st to join, fasten off, weave in ends )
Wings: pic no.2, using color B yarn

Insert hook into the 5th stitch from your last slip stitch.

Ch 5, hdc into 2nd chain from hook, hdc across, total 4 hdc, sl into next stitch from first chain.

Ch 4, hdc into 2nd chain from hook, hdc across, total 3 hdc, sl into next stitch from first chain.

Ch 3, hdc into 2nd chain from hook, hdc across, total 2 hdc, sl into next stitch from first chain. ( fasten off, weave in ends )

You have just finished 1 wing, flip the heart and continue with other side.
Square bed: pic no.3, 4 & 5, using color B and C yarn

Flip the heart, you’ll see the back-loops.

With color C yarn, insert hook into the back loop of last st of R1. Crochet 2 dc into every st, sl into 1st st to join, total 24 sts.

Ch 4 (or standing tr), dc into same st, 4 dc across, 1dc and 1 tr into next st, ch 2, *1 tr and 1 dc into next st, 4 dc across, 1 dc and 1 tr into next st, ch 2* repeat ** 3 times, sl into last st to join.

Now every ch 2 at the corners is a loop.

(8 dc across, 2 dc into loop, ch 2, 2 dc into loop) repeat 4 times, sl into 1st st to join.

Change to color B yarn, 10 dc across, 2 dc into loop, ch 2, 2 dc into loop, *12 dc across, 2 dc into loop, ch 2, 2 dc into loop* repeat ** 3 times, 2 dc into last 2 sts, sl into last st to join. (fasten off, weave in ends)

Posted in #crafts # creativity, Knitting

I love these knitted slippers check them out ~ it’s a free pattern too!


GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.
GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles):

* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds. 
PATTERN:

See diagram A.1. Diagram shows pattern seen from RS.
——————————————————–
SLIPPERS:

LEG: 

Cast on 36-38-40 sts on double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10 with Eskimo. Work in GARTER ST in the round – see explanation above – until piece measures approx. 4 cm / 1½”, finish after 1 round P. 
FOOT:

Now keep the first 9-11-11 sts on the round on the needle, slip the remaining 27-27-29 sts on 1 stitch holder. Continue in garter st back and forth over the 9-11-11 sts – AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row cast on 1 new st in each side (edge st) = 11-13-13 sts. When piece measures 7-8.5-10 cm / 2 3/4″-3 1/4″-4”, bind off 1 edge st in each side = 9-11-11 sts. Then slip the sts from stitch holder back on needle and pick up 12-14-16 sts on each side of middle part (inside 1 edge st) = 60-66-72 sts on needle. 

Now measure piece from here. Insert 1 marker mid front of toe and 1 marker mid back on heel. 

Continue in the round in garter st. 

When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4”, K 2 sts tog on each side of every marker on every other round (= 4 sts less per round) continue dec until piece measures 5-5-6 cm / 2″-2″-2½” – bind off. Sew tog seam mid under foot in outermost st to avoid a chunky seam.

LOOSE LEG WORKED ACROSS: 

Cast on 22 sts on needle size 6 mm / US 10 with Eskimo. Work 1 ridge in garter st, on last row inc 6 sts evenly = 28 sts. Work according to A.1 (= 28 sts) until piece measures approx. 32-33-35 cm / 12½”-13″-13 3/4″, on last row dec 3 sts over every cable in A.1 = 22 sts. 

Work 1 ridge in garter st and bind off. Place cast-on edge over bind-off edge and sew on 3 buttons for decoration through the leg. Pull leg 2 cm / 3/4” down on foot with buttons on the outside of slipper and sew leg to cast-on edge on slipper from WS with invisible stitches.
Knit another slipper the same way, make sure that the leg opening is in the opposite side.

Diagram 

== K from RS, P from WS

 = P from RS, K from WS

 = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
 = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle

Posted in #crafts # creativity, Blanket/throw, Crochet

Check out this Granny Afghan it’s an ideal project to use up scrap pieces of wool/yarn …


1st motif: less dense (more open sp)


2nd motif: more dense (less open sp)

Gauge: Finished motif approx. 5” sq.
Notes: Invisible joins – wk invisible joins after ea cut.

 

Abbreviations:

Bet between

Ch chain

Dc double crochet

Gp group

Mc main color    

Rep repeat

Rs right side

Sl st slip stitch

Sp space

St stitch

Wk work

Ws wrong side

 

 

1st Motif Option – make 90 (less dense, more open sp)

Ch3 (counts as dc). 

Rnd 1: 11 dc in 1st ch, join w/sl st top ch3. Pull ctr tight, closing hole. 

Rnd 2: Sl st in next sp bet dc sts. Ch3, 5dc in same sp, (sk 3 dc, 6 dc in next sp bet dc sts)3x, sl st in top ch3. 

Rnd 3: Sl st in top next 2 sts, sl st in next sp bet dc sts, ch3, 5dc in same sp, (3dc in next sp bet 6dc gp, sk 3dc, 6dc in next sp bet dc)3x, end 3dc in last sp, join w/sl st to top ch3, cut, finish off w/invisible join.

Rnd 4: join mc in any corner sp of 6dc, in same sp wk (ch3, 3dc, ch1, 4 dc), *(4 dc in next sp bet 3dc gp)2x, in next ctr sp of 6dc gp wk (4dc, ch1, 4dc), rep from * around, end 4dc in sp bet 3dc gp, sl st in top ch3. Cut, wk invisible join.
2nd Motif Option – make 90 (more dense, less open sp)

Ch3 (counts as dc). 

Rnd 1: 15 dc in 1st ch, join w/sl st in top ch3. Pull ctr tight, closing hole. 

Rnd 2: Sl st in next sp bet dc sts. Ch3, 7dc in same sp, (Sk 4 dc, 8 dc in next ctr sp bet dc sts)3x, Sl st in top ch3. 

Rnd 3: Sl st in top next 3 sts, sl st in next sp bet dc sts, Ch3, 7dc in same sp, (4dc in next sp bet 8dc gp, sk 4dc, 8dc in next sp bet dc)3x, end 4dc in last sp, join w/sl st to top ch3, cut, wk invisible join. 

Rnd 4: join mc in any corner sp of 8dc, in same sp wk (ch3, 3dc, ch1, 4 dc), *(4 dc in next sp bet 4dc gp)2x, in next ctr sp of 8dc gp wk (4dc, ch1, 4dc), rep from * around, end 4dc in sp bet 4dc gp, sl st in top ch3. Cut, wk invisible join.
Joining – make 10 strips of 9 squares – joining worked holding ws tog throughout.

To join squares, ws tog and working thru both lps ea sq, make a ch, pull up ch in corner st ea motif, (ch1, sl st thru next st of both motifs)rep across, ending ch1, cut. Rep for ea added sq, being sure to st seams in same direction as previous joined sq. Join strips, same method. Finish off tails.
BORDER

Rnd 1: Pull up a st in any st on a side, ch3 (counts as dc) dc in ea st around, working 3 dc in ea corner st and wk 3 sts at ea seam (at the seam: 1 st left, 1 st right, and 1 at ctr between ea set of 4dc on either side of a seam), end sl st in top ch3; NOTE – be sure that when working corners, don’t sk the sts immediately to the right and left of the ctr corner st (important in st count needed for last rnd).  

Rnds 2 & 3: ch3, dc around, end sl st in top ch3. At end Rnd 3, cut, finish off, wk invisible join.


Edging Rnd of Embedded dc cl: pull up a lp in a corner sp, in same sp wk *ch3, wk dc cl as: [(yo, pull up lp)4x, yo, pull thru 5]; sk 2 sp bet dc , sl st in next sp, rep * around; cut, wk invisible join.  

The completed rnd creates a slight ruffle (like a pinch at each seam on all sides). Block afghan.