Posted in #crafts # creativity, Blanket/throw, C2c, Crochet

Gingham Blanket 


While it looks challenging, it is simply a Corner to Corner (C2C) pattern made with Half-Double Crochet Stitch (HDC) using a Gingham graph for color placement (available for purchase here)
You will need:
Crochet Hook J/10 or 6 mm hook

Yarn Weight(4) Medium Weight/Worsted Weight – I used LionBrand Wool-Ease Yarn in Dark Rose Heather, Rose Heather and Blush Heather

Gingham Chart


Finished Size Each little square measures about 3×3. You can use this chart available on the LionBrand website to figure out how much yarn you need in order to make the size blanket you want. According to their chart, you will need approximately 1300 yards to make a 20”x30” baby blanket. http://www.lionbrand.com/faq
Instructions
Ch 5.
1st row: (RS). 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook (counts as ch-2 and hdc). 1 hdc in each of next 2 ch. Turn. 1 block.
2nd row: Ch 5. 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. 1 hdc in each of next 2 ch – beg block made. Miss next 3 hdc. (Sl st. Ch 2. 3 hdc) in next ch-2 sp – block made. Turn. 2 blocks.
3rd row: Beg block. (Block) twice. Turn. 3 blocks.
4th row: Beg block. (Block) 3 times. Turn. 4 blocks.
5th row: Beg block. (Block) 4 times. Turn. 5 blocks.
Cont increasing 1 block each row until left side from beg measures desired length
Beg decreasing: Next row: Sl st in each of next 3 hdc. Block in each ch-2 sp to last ch-2 sp. Sl st in last ch-2 sp. Turn. Rep last row until you have 1 block in the row.
Fasten off.

Posted in #crafts # creativity, Crochet

The Best Crochet Walker OrganizerBy: Red Heart Yarns


I bet you have never seen this before! The Best Crochet Walker Organizer is here to make your life that much more simple. It can be a pain to carry things if you have to use a walker to get around, so there is a high need for a crochet organizer that can do it all for you. Use this crochet hanging organizer off the side of the walker to make life a little more hands-free. Don’t worry about leaving grandma alone- she can carry around all the things she needs just by hooking this on to her walker.
Easy
Crochet HookG/6 or 4 mm hook
Yarn Weight(4) Medium Weight/Worsted Weight and Aran (16-20 stitches to 4 inches)
MATERIALS:
Red Heart Soft: 1 ball each

A: 9518 Teal

B: 9522 Leaf

C: 9870 Deep Sea

Susan Bates Crochet Hook: 4mm [G-6 US]

Yarn Needle

Locking Stitch Markers or Seaming Pins

4 1/2″ (11.5 cm) of 3/4″ (2 cm) Wide Sew-on Velcro Sewing Needle

Matching Thread

 
SIZE: Bag measures 14″ wide x 13″ long (35.5 x 33 cm) with flaps folded over
 

 

GAUGE: 16 sts = 4″ (10cm); 16 rows = 4″ (10 cm) in single crochet
 
NOTES:
Bag is made in panels worked back and forth in rows and joined together to form pockets.

Backstitching vertically across rows creates pockets of varying sizes. 

Velcro® fasteners are sewn to flaps to secure bag around the bar of a walker. 

At the beginning of each row on Panels 2 and 3, draw up first chain to height of half double crochet or double crochet stitch. This first chain does not count as a stitch; do not work into this chain at the end of a row. Work first stitch of each row in last stitch of previous row.
Special Stitches:
sc2tog = [Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop] twice, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Join with sc = Place a slip knot on hook, insert hook in indicated stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook.

 

ORGANIZER

Panel #1
With A, ch 53.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn—52 sc.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 6” (15 cm). Fasten off.

Panel #2
With B, ch 53.

Row 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn—52 hdc.

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in each hdc across, turn.Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 9½” (24 cm). Fasten off.
Panel #3
With C, ch 53.

Row 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook (beginning ch counts as first dc) and each ch across, turn—52 dc.

Row 2: Ch 1, dc in each dc across, turn.Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 12” (30.5 cm) ending on wrong side row. Do not fasten off.

Note: The three flaps that follow are added to the top edge of Panel #3. 
Flap #1
Row 1: Ch 1, dc in first 8 dc; leave remaining sts unworked, turn—8 dc.

Rows 2–6: Ch 1, dc in each dc across, turn. Fasten off.
Flap #2 
With right side facing, skip next 14 dc from last flap and join C with slip st in next st.

Row 1: Ch 1, dc in same st as join, dc in next 7 dc; leave remaining sts unworked, turn. 

Rows 2–6: Ch 1, dc in each dc across, turn.Fasten off.
Flap #3 
With right side facing, skip next 14 dc from last flap and join C with slip st in next st.

Row 1: Ch 1, dc in same st as join, dc in last 7 dc, turn. 

Rows 2–6: Ch 1, dc in each dc across, turn. Fasten off.
FINISHING 

Joining Panels
Lay panel #2 on panel #3 with side and lower edges matching. Lay panel #1 on panel #2 in same manner. Hold panels together with locking stitch markers or seaming pins.

Round 1 (right side): With right side of first row facing, insert hook through all thicknesses and join A with sc in opposite side of last foundation ch; working across ends of rows and through all thicknesses, sc 22 sts evenly across panel #1, sc 10 sts evenly across panel #2, sc 12 sts evenly across panel #3 to first row of flap #1, *sc 9 sts evenly across ends of rows of first side of flap, 3 sc in first st, sc in next 6 sts, 3 sc in last st, sc 9 sts evenly across ends of rows of other side of flap**, sc2tog over same st as last sc and first st after flap, sc in each st to last st before next flap, sc2tog over last st and end of first row of next flap; beginning in same row as last st made, repeat from * twice ending at **; continuing across ends of rows and through all thicknesses, sc 12 sts evenly across panel #3, sc 10 sts evenly across panel #2, sc 22 sts evenly across panel #1; working in opposite side of foundation ch and through all thicknesses, 3 sc in first ch, sc in each ch across to first sc, 2 sc in same ch as first sc; join with slip st in first sc—262 sc.

Round 2: Slip st in each sc around; join with slip st in first slip st. Fasten off.

Pockets
With right side facing, place stitch markers or seaming pins on 19th and 29th sts from right edge. Place additional markers or pins on same sts across various rows as a sewing guideline. 

With A and working through all thicknesses, backstitch over the 19th st of each row from bottom edge to top edge of panel #1. Secure and cut yarn.

With B and working through all thicknesses, backstitch over 19th st of each row of panel #2. Secure and cut yarn. 

With A and working only through panels #1 and #2, backstitch over 29th stitch of each row of panel #1. Secure and cut yarn.
Flaps
Cut three 1½” (4 cm) lengths of Velcro®. 

With sewing needle and thread, sew Velcro to wrong side of flaps and top of panel, leaving sufficient room to wrap around the bar of a walker.

Weave in ends.

Posted in #crafts # creativity, Crochet, Crochet stitch tutorial

Double Lattice Stitch ~ Crochet stitch tutorial 💕 


Double Lattice Stitch
This stitch is worked over a multiple of 6 stitches plus 4. 12 rows form the pattern.
1st row (WS): P.
2nd row: *LT, (RT) twice, rep from * to last 4 sts, LT, RT.
3rd and every foll alt row: As 1st row.
4th row: K1, LT, *RT, (LT) twice, rep from * to last st, K1.
6th row: (LT) twice, *K2, (LT) twice, rep from * to end.
8th row: K1, *(LT) twice, RT, rep from * to last 3 sts, LT, K1.
10th row: RT, *LT, (RT) twice, rep from * to last 2 sts, LT.
12th row: K3, *(RT) twice, K2, rep from * to last st, K1.


NOTE
Twist stitches to the left (LT), rows 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10: 2nd row (RS) Insert the RH needle point knitwise through the back of the loop of the 2nd st on the LH needle.
Twist stitches to the left (LT), rows 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10: 2nd row (RS) Wind yarn round needle and draw through a loop then insert RH needle point knitwise into the back of the 2 sts on the LH needle, wind yarn round, draw through loop and allow both sts to drop off needle.
Twist stitches to the right (RT) rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12: 2nd row (RS) Insert the point of the right-hand needle point into the front of the next 2 sts on the LH needle, wind yarn round point of the needle and draw through a loop, then work into the 1st st on LH needle and allow both sts to drop off needle

Posted in #crafts # creativity, Crochet

Free pattern :      DROPS / 162 / 5Spring BlissCrochet DROPS jacket with lace pattern in ”Paris”. Size: S – XXXL.


DROPS design: Pattern no w-543

Yarn group C or A + A

———————————————————-

Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL – XXXL
Materials: 

DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio

800-850-950-1050-1150-1250 g color no 101, light blue
DROPS CROCHET Hook size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get approx. 3.5 dc-groups in width x 9 rounds vertically = 4” x 4” (10 x 10 cm).
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
DECREASE TIP:

Dec 1 dc by working 2 dc tog as follows: 

Work 1 dc in first ch-space but wait with last pull through, skip ch 3, work 1 dc in next ch-space but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.

———————————————————-
BODY:

Worked in the round from mid back on the back. Work 6 ch with Paris on hook size 5 mm / H/8 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.

Work according to diagram A.1, i.e. work as follows:

ROUND 1: 5 ch (= 1 dc + 2 ch), * 1 dc in ring, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 8 dc with 2 ch between each.

ROUND 2: 1 sl st in first ch-space, 3 ch (= 1 dc), 2 dc in same ch-space, * ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 7 times in total, and finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 8 dc-groups with 1 ch between each.

ROUND 3: ch 1, 1 sc in the middle dc in dc-group, * ch 3, 1 sc in ch before next dc-group, ch 3, 1 sc in the middle dc in next dc-group *, repeat from *-* 7 times in total, ch 3, 1 sc in last ch, 3 ch and 1 sl st in first sc at beg of round = 16 ch-spaces.

ROUND 4: Now work the circle into a square, i.e. work as follows: 1 sl st in first ch-space, 4 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr in same ch-space (= corner), * (2 ch, 1 dc in next ch-space) repeat from (-) 3 times in total, ch 2, 2 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr in next ch-space (= corner) *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, repeat from (-) 3 times in total and finish with 2 ch and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round. 

ROUND 5: Work sl sts until ch-space in the corner, 3 ch (= 1 dc), 2 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc in same ch-space (= corner), * ch 5, skip 1 ch-space, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 5, skip 1 ch-space, in next ch-space (= corner) work 3 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, ch 5, skip 1 ch-space, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 5, skip last ch-space and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.

ROUND 6: Work sl sts until ch-space in the corner, 3 ch (= 1 dc),

2 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc in same ch-space (= corner), * (6 ch, 1 sc + 2 ch + sc in next ch-space), repeat from (-) until corner, ch 6, work 3 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc in ch-space in the corner *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, repeat from (-) until the corner and finish with 6 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.

ROUND 7: Work sl sts until ch-space in the corner, 3 ch (= 1 dc), 2 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc in same ch-space (= corner), * ch 1, (1 sc in 6-ch-space, 2 dc + 2 ch + 2 dc in 2-ch-space), repeat from (-) until one 6-ch-space remains before the corner, 1 sc in 6-ch-space, ch 1, 3 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc in ch-space in the corner *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, ch 1, repeat from (-) until one 6-ch-space remains before the corner and finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round. 

ROUND 8: Work sl sts until ch-space in the corner, 3 ch (= 1 dc), 2 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc in same ch-space (= corner), * ch 2, 1 dc in first ch, (3 ch, 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc in ch-space in dc-group), repeat from (-) until corner, ch 3, 1 dc in ch before corner, ch 2, 3 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc in ch-space in the corner *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, ch 2, 1 dc in first ch, repeat from (-) until corner, ch 3, 1 dc in last ch, 2 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.

ROUND 9: Work sl sts until ch-space in the corner, 3 ch (= 1 dc), 2 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc in same ch-space (= corner), * ch 5, 1 dc in first ch-space, (5 ch, 1 dc in ch-space in dc-group), repeat from (-) until 1 ch-space remains before dc-group in the corner, ch 5, 1 dc in last ch-space before the corner, 5 ch and 3 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc in ch-space in the corner *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, ch 5, 1 dc in first ch-space, repeat from (-) until 1 ch-space remains before the corner, ch 5, 1 dc in last ch-space, 5 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round. 

REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

Repeat 6th to 9th round (4 rounds) outwards as shown in diagram. 

Continue like this until square measures approx. 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm x 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm / 14¼”-15”-15¾”-16½”-17¼”-18” x 14¼”-15”-15¾”-16½”-17¼”-18”.

Now work armholes as follows: Work as before until first corner, work 3 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc in ch-space in the corner. Now work ch until the middle of next side (i.e. in the middle between 1st and 2nd corner) as follows: Work 1 ch for every ch/dc skipped. Then work pattern as before until the middle between 3rd and 4th corner. Now work ch until beg of round as follows: Work 1 ch for every ch/dc skipped. On next round work pattern and inc as before over all sts, also in ch for armholes.

Continue like this until square measures approx. 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm x 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm/ 30¾”-31½”-32¼”-33”-33 7/8”-34 5/8” x 30¾”-31½”-32¼”-33”-33 7/8”-34 5/8” (i.e. approx. 21 cm / 8 1/4” in all sizes from armhole) – adjust to finish after 9th round (round with ch-spaces and dc’s). Cut the yarn. 
FRONT PIECE:

Beg from WS and work back and forth between first and second corner. NOTE: Work front piece without inc. Work according to diagram A.2 from first corner, i.e. work as follows: 

ROW 1: 3 ch (= 1 sc + 2 ch), 1 sc + 2 ch + 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 6, 1 sc + 2 ch + 1 sc in next ch-space*, repeat from *-* the entire row and finish with 2 ch and 1 sc in first ch-space in the corner, turn piece.

ROW 2 (= RS): 3 ch (= 1 dc), * 2 dc + 2 ch + 2 dc in ch-space between 2 sc, 1 sc in 6-ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row and finish with 1 dc in 1st ch from beg of previous row, turn piece.

ROW 3: 4 ch (= 1 dc + 1 ch), * 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc in ch-space in the middle of dc-group, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* until 1 dc-group remains before the corner, 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc in ch-space in last dc-group, finish with 1 ch and 1 dc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row, turn piece.

ROW 4 (= RS): 5 ch (= 1 dc + 2 ch), * 1 dc in ch-space in dc-group, 5 ch *, repeat from *-* until 1 dc-group remains, 1 dc in ch-space in last dc-group, 2 ch and 1 dc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row, turn piece.

ROW 5: 7 ch (= 1 sc + 6 ch), * 1 sc + 2 ch + 1 sc in 5-ch-space, 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row and finish with 1 sc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row, turn piece.

ROW 6 (= RS): 6 ch (= 1 dc + 3 ch), * 1 sc in 6-ch-space, 2 dc + 2 ch + 2 dc in 2-ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row and finish with 1 sc in last 6-ch-space, 3 ch and 1 dc in first ch from beg of previous row, turn piece.

ROW 7: 4 ch (= 1 dc + 1 ch), 1 dc in same st, * ch 3, 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc in ch-space in the middle of next dc-group *, repeat from *-* the entire row and finish with 3 ch and 1 dc + 1 ch + 1 dc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row, turn piece.

ROW 8 (= RS): 8 ch (= 1 dc + 5 ch), * 1 dc in ch-space in the middle of dc-group, 5 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row and finish with 5 ch and 1 dc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row, turn piece.

Repeat rows 1 to 8 outwards. 

Continue like this until approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm / 7½”-8”-8¼”-8¾”-9”-9½” have been worked back and forth, fasten off (adjust after 1st or 5th row in pattern). Repeat on the other side, now work back and forth from third to fourth corner. 
EDGE:

Finally work a round around the entire piece with 2nd or 6th row in pattern but in ch-space in each corner work 6 dc. Fasten off.
SLEEVE:

Work back and forward and sew togheter at the end. Sleeve is worked straight out of armhole of the body, top down. 
Beg mid under armhole, from RS.

1 sc in first st, then work ch-space as on 4th or 8th row in A.2. Work so that there are 12-13-14-15-15-16 ch-spaces around armhole. Then continue with pattern according to diagram A.2. Work pattern like this until sleeve measures 26 cm / 10 1/4”. Now work according to A.3. On every row with arrow work 2 dc tog into 1 dc mid front of sleeve (i.e. dec 1 ch-space on every round with arrow) – READ DECREASE TIP. The dotted line shows mid front of sleeve. Otherwise continue the pattern as before. Dec on every 4th row a total of 4 times.

Then work according to diagram A.2 until sleeve measures 56 cm / 22” in all sizes. Fasten off. Repeat in the other side.

Posted in #crafts # creativity, Crochet, gift

Smurf glasses holder! How cute is this 💕

http://www.repeatcrafterme.com/2017/05/crochet-brainy-smurf-glasses-holder.html

Materials:– Bernat Super Value yarn in Hot Blue and White (one skein of each). Find yarn at Yarnspirations.com.

– Size H Crochet Hook

– Polyfil Fiber Stuffing

– Giant Safety Eyes (24mm). I got mine HERE. This part is optional. Feel free to crochet a small black circle for the pupil of the eye.

– Tapestry needle
Smurf Pattern:
Head:

With blue yarn

Magic ring, chain 1 and make 12 SC in ring, join to first SC, chain 1

Round 2: 2 SC in first, SC in next, repeat around, join, chain 1 (18 SC)

Round 3: 2 SC in first, SC in next 2, repeat around, join, chain 1 (24 SC)

Round 4: 2 SC in first, SC in next 3, repeat around, join, chain 1 (30 SC)

Round 5: 2 SC in first, SC in next 4, repeat around, join, chain 1 (36 SC)

Round 6: 2 SC in first, SC in next 5, repeat around, join, chain 1 (42 SC)

Round 7: 2 SC in first, SC in next 6, repeat around, join, chain 1 (48 SC)

Round 8: 2 SC in first, SC in next 7, repeat around, join, chain 1 (54 SC)

Round 9: 2 SC in first, SC in next 8, repeat around, join, chain 1 (60 SC)

Round 10-18: SC in each stitch around, join, chain 1 (60)

Round 19: SC decrease, SC in next 8, repeat around, join, chain 1

Round 20: SC in each stitch around, join, chain 1

Round 21: SC decrease, SC in next 7, repeat around, join, chain 1

Round 22: SC in each stitch around, join, chain 1

Round 23: SC decrease, SC in next 6, repeat around, join, chain 1

Round 24: SC in each stitch around, join, chain 1

Round 25: SC decrease, SC in next 5, repeat around, join, chain 1

Round 26: SC in each stitch around, join, chain 1

Round 17: SC decrease, SC in next 4, repeat around, join, chain 1

Leave top open and sew on eyes, nose, ears, and mouth.

Then stuff with polyfil. TIP: add 3 golf balls to the bottom of the head to weigh it down!

You can either leave top of head open (the hat will cover it) or you can close it by continuing decrease rounds.


Nose:

with blue

Magic ring, chain 1 and make 6 SC in ring, join to first SC, chain 1

Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around, join, chain 1

Round 3-6: SC in each stitch around, join, chain 1

Round 7: SC decrease, SC in next, repeat around, join, chain 1

Stuff with polyfil

Round 8: SC decrease until closed.

Nose should be attached longways.


Ears: make 2

with blue

Magic ring, chain 1 and make 10 SC in ring, join to first SC, chain 1

Round 2: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around, join, chain 1 (15 SC)

Round 3: SC in each stitch around, join, chain 1 (15 SC)

Round 4: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2, repeat around, join, chain 1 (20 SC)

Round 5: SC in each stitch around, join, chain 1 (20 SC)

Round 6: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 3, repeat around, join, chain 1 (25 SC)

Round 7-9: SC in each stitch around, join, chain 1 (25 SC)

Round 10: SC decrease, SC in next 3 stitches, join, chain 1

Round 11: SC in each stitch around, join, chain 1

Round 12: SC decrease, SC in next 2, repeat around, join, chain 1

stuff lightly with polyfil, molding the ear as you stuff it.

Round 13: SC decrease until closed.

When attaching ear to head, make a small stitch with yarn and tapestry needle in the upper middle part of the ear, pull tight to allow an indent.


Eyes: make 2

With white

Magic ring, chain 1 and make 8 SC in ring, join, chain 1

Round 2: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around, join, chain 1 (12 SC)

Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2, repeat around, join, chain 1 (16 SC)

Round 4: SC in first, HDC in next, 2 DC in next 4, HDC, SC in last 9, join to first SC, fasten off leaving long tail to sew onto head.

Be sure the eyes are overlapping when you stitch them on.

Add safety eyes.


Hat:
With white

Magic ring, chain 1 and make 10 SC in ring, join, chain 1

Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around, join, chain 1 (20 SC)

Round 3: SC in each stitch around, join, chain 1 (20 SC)

Round 4: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around, join, chain 1 (30 SC)

Round 5-12: SC in each stitch around, join, chain 1 (30 SC)

Round 13: [2 SC in first stitch, SC in next ] do this 4 times, SC in next 12, [2 SC, SC in next] do this 5 times, join, chain 1 (39 SC)

Round 14: SC in each stitch around (39 SC)

Round 15: 2 SC in first 9, SC in next 21, 2 SC in last 9, join, chain 1 (57 SC)

Round 16- 26: SC in each stitch around, join, chain 1 (57 SC)

Fasten off leaving long tail.


Stuff top of hat.

Fold brim over, stuff lightly and sew brim closed.


Sew hat onto top of head.


The smile is long piece of yarn loosely stitched in with a tapestry needle and then carefully (with just a dab) glued down into place.

Posted in #crafts # creativity, Crochet, Granny square tutorial

Angel Heart Granny Square 💕


Original source
Materials: (I used)

4,5 mm crochet hook

Worsted weight yarn: (Martha Stewart Extra Soft Wool Blend) color A,B,C

Scissors

Yarn needle
Abbreviations
Note: I used chainless starting dc/tr for every first dc/tr of each round instead of ch 3/ch 4. There’s another good crochet technique to use is ch 2/ch 3, dc/tr into same stitch ( counted as 1st dc/tr ). In the pattern below you’ll see I simply state dc/tr for every first dc/tr of each round, so just choose your best technique 🙂
You can use any hook size for this pattern, just choose a yarn type that matches.

Heart: pic no.1,using color A yarnR1: form a magic ring, crochet 12 dc into the ring, total 12 dc (pull ring close, sl into first st to join, ch 1)

R2: work all sts into front-loops only, 1 hdc and 1 dc into 1st st, 3 tr into next st, 2 dc into next st, 1 dc and 1 hdc into next st, 2 hdc into next st, 1 dc into next st ( you have just finished half of the heart now)

Go counter-clockwise: 1 dc into next st, 2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc and 1 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, 3 tr into next st, 1 dc and 1 hdc into last st, total 24 sts ( sl into first st to join, fasten off, weave in ends )
Wings: pic no.2, using color B yarn

Insert hook into the 5th stitch from your last slip stitch.

Ch 5, hdc into 2nd chain from hook, hdc across, total 4 hdc, sl into next stitch from first chain.

Ch 4, hdc into 2nd chain from hook, hdc across, total 3 hdc, sl into next stitch from first chain.

Ch 3, hdc into 2nd chain from hook, hdc across, total 2 hdc, sl into next stitch from first chain. ( fasten off, weave in ends )

You have just finished 1 wing, flip the heart and continue with other side.
Square bed: pic no.3, 4 & 5, using color B and C yarn

Flip the heart, you’ll see the back-loops.

With color C yarn, insert hook into the back loop of last st of R1. Crochet 2 dc into every st, sl into 1st st to join, total 24 sts.

Ch 4 (or standing tr), dc into same st, 4 dc across, 1dc and 1 tr into next st, ch 2, *1 tr and 1 dc into next st, 4 dc across, 1 dc and 1 tr into next st, ch 2* repeat ** 3 times, sl into last st to join.

Now every ch 2 at the corners is a loop.

(8 dc across, 2 dc into loop, ch 2, 2 dc into loop) repeat 4 times, sl into 1st st to join.

Change to color B yarn, 10 dc across, 2 dc into loop, ch 2, 2 dc into loop, *12 dc across, 2 dc into loop, ch 2, 2 dc into loop* repeat ** 3 times, 2 dc into last 2 sts, sl into last st to join. (fasten off, weave in ends)