Posted in #crafts # creativity, Crochet

The Best Crochet Walker OrganizerBy: Red Heart Yarns


I bet you have never seen this before! The Best Crochet Walker Organizer is here to make your life that much more simple. It can be a pain to carry things if you have to use a walker to get around, so there is a high need for a crochet organizer that can do it all for you. Use this crochet hanging organizer off the side of the walker to make life a little more hands-free. Don’t worry about leaving grandma alone- she can carry around all the things she needs just by hooking this on to her walker.
Easy
Crochet HookG/6 or 4 mm hook
Yarn Weight(4) Medium Weight/Worsted Weight and Aran (16-20 stitches to 4 inches)
MATERIALS:
Red Heart Soft: 1 ball each

A: 9518 Teal

B: 9522 Leaf

C: 9870 Deep Sea

Susan Bates Crochet Hook: 4mm [G-6 US]

Yarn Needle

Locking Stitch Markers or Seaming Pins

4 1/2″ (11.5 cm) of 3/4″ (2 cm) Wide Sew-on Velcro Sewing Needle

Matching Thread

 
SIZE: Bag measures 14″ wide x 13″ long (35.5 x 33 cm) with flaps folded over
 

 

GAUGE: 16 sts = 4″ (10cm); 16 rows = 4″ (10 cm) in single crochet
 
NOTES:
Bag is made in panels worked back and forth in rows and joined together to form pockets.

Backstitching vertically across rows creates pockets of varying sizes. 

Velcro® fasteners are sewn to flaps to secure bag around the bar of a walker. 

At the beginning of each row on Panels 2 and 3, draw up first chain to height of half double crochet or double crochet stitch. This first chain does not count as a stitch; do not work into this chain at the end of a row. Work first stitch of each row in last stitch of previous row.
Special Stitches:
sc2tog = [Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop] twice, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Join with sc = Place a slip knot on hook, insert hook in indicated stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook.

 

ORGANIZER

Panel #1
With A, ch 53.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn—52 sc.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 6” (15 cm). Fasten off.

Panel #2
With B, ch 53.

Row 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn—52 hdc.

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in each hdc across, turn.Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 9½” (24 cm). Fasten off.
Panel #3
With C, ch 53.

Row 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook (beginning ch counts as first dc) and each ch across, turn—52 dc.

Row 2: Ch 1, dc in each dc across, turn.Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 12” (30.5 cm) ending on wrong side row. Do not fasten off.

Note: The three flaps that follow are added to the top edge of Panel #3. 
Flap #1
Row 1: Ch 1, dc in first 8 dc; leave remaining sts unworked, turn—8 dc.

Rows 2–6: Ch 1, dc in each dc across, turn. Fasten off.
Flap #2 
With right side facing, skip next 14 dc from last flap and join C with slip st in next st.

Row 1: Ch 1, dc in same st as join, dc in next 7 dc; leave remaining sts unworked, turn. 

Rows 2–6: Ch 1, dc in each dc across, turn.Fasten off.
Flap #3 
With right side facing, skip next 14 dc from last flap and join C with slip st in next st.

Row 1: Ch 1, dc in same st as join, dc in last 7 dc, turn. 

Rows 2–6: Ch 1, dc in each dc across, turn. Fasten off.
FINISHING 

Joining Panels
Lay panel #2 on panel #3 with side and lower edges matching. Lay panel #1 on panel #2 in same manner. Hold panels together with locking stitch markers or seaming pins.

Round 1 (right side): With right side of first row facing, insert hook through all thicknesses and join A with sc in opposite side of last foundation ch; working across ends of rows and through all thicknesses, sc 22 sts evenly across panel #1, sc 10 sts evenly across panel #2, sc 12 sts evenly across panel #3 to first row of flap #1, *sc 9 sts evenly across ends of rows of first side of flap, 3 sc in first st, sc in next 6 sts, 3 sc in last st, sc 9 sts evenly across ends of rows of other side of flap**, sc2tog over same st as last sc and first st after flap, sc in each st to last st before next flap, sc2tog over last st and end of first row of next flap; beginning in same row as last st made, repeat from * twice ending at **; continuing across ends of rows and through all thicknesses, sc 12 sts evenly across panel #3, sc 10 sts evenly across panel #2, sc 22 sts evenly across panel #1; working in opposite side of foundation ch and through all thicknesses, 3 sc in first ch, sc in each ch across to first sc, 2 sc in same ch as first sc; join with slip st in first sc—262 sc.

Round 2: Slip st in each sc around; join with slip st in first slip st. Fasten off.

Pockets
With right side facing, place stitch markers or seaming pins on 19th and 29th sts from right edge. Place additional markers or pins on same sts across various rows as a sewing guideline. 

With A and working through all thicknesses, backstitch over the 19th st of each row from bottom edge to top edge of panel #1. Secure and cut yarn.

With B and working through all thicknesses, backstitch over 19th st of each row of panel #2. Secure and cut yarn. 

With A and working only through panels #1 and #2, backstitch over 29th stitch of each row of panel #1. Secure and cut yarn.
Flaps
Cut three 1½” (4 cm) lengths of Velcro®. 

With sewing needle and thread, sew Velcro to wrong side of flaps and top of panel, leaving sufficient room to wrap around the bar of a walker.

Weave in ends.

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Posted in #crafts # creativity

Purple Crochet Gingham Blanket 


PATTERN
*for a list of abbreviations go to bottom of page*
CH 111, (pattern repeat is 10 plus one), in white.
Switch to your K hook.
SC in the second CH from the hook and the next 9 chains, start the 10th SC, but before you finish, change colors and join the lighter purple, SC over the white strand of yarn as you go for the next 10 SC. However, again, before you finish the 10th SC, pull up the white yarn you’ve been carrying along to finish the stitch.
Repeat this across the whole length of the chain alternating colors every 10 SC.
Chain 1 and turn, carrying the yarn not in use around the corner, and begin again with your 10 SC.
Always change colors on the 10th SC.
After working 10 rows, cut the white color, leaving a long tail to weave in later, and work your ten SC with the light purple. (your rows should have started and ended with the white). After your 10th SC, work in the dark purple.
You are always working over the yarn not in use. If this is confusing, refer to the video clip below to get a glimpse of how easy this is to do.

And here is the finished gingham blanket! I added a simple shell border.

 
NOTES
First, before starting the border for this purple gingham crochet blanket, I wove in all my ends. Then, I joined in one of the corners, chained one then worked one SC into that space. Then I worked one SC into each space around the whole blanket, working 3 SC into each corner. When I returned to the starting chain, I work the final 2 SC, then slip stitched to the first, chained one, and then turned. I worked another row of all SC around the entire blanket again and did 3 SC into each corner.
I slip stitched again when I returned to the starting SC, chained one and turned. I worked one SC into that corner then skipped over two SC, worked 6 DC. Skip 2 again, work one SC, SK 2, work 6 DC. I worked this pattern around the entire blanket again. And, I did not add anything for the corners. I just kept the pattern going and it worked out perfectly. I joined at the end of the round to the first SC, and tied off.
Keep this tip in mind about gingham: Whatever three colors you choose to work with, there needs to be a light, medium, and dark. The medium color is used in every row. It alternates with the white, and then with the dark. That will ensure that you are making a gingham pattern. Any other variation will look like a checkerboard.

 © DAISY FARM CRAFTS 2017. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. | DESIGN + DEVELOPMENT BY MCKENZIE SUE.

Posted in #crafts # creativity, Knitting

Knit for peace


Knit for peace supports knitting groups worldwide, including in India, Pakistan and in Rwanda, where communities are stitching together their differences.

The charity provides women who are originally from hostile communities with a common cause – organising knitting and seeing businesses!

The organisation doesn’t just help people outside of the UK either, it is setting up Knit for Peace groups here too, including a women’s prison group that has a waiting list to get into. It’s all about improving mental and physical health and helping those in need. For more information and to help knit together fractured communities, visit http://www.knitforpeace.org.uk